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The Harmful Effects of Polysorbate in Cosmetics

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As we become more conscious of what we put on our skin, one ingredient to be aware of in many cosmetics is polysorbate. Often used as an emulsifier to blend oil and water in lotions and creams, it might seem harmless, but there are risks associated with this chemical.


What is An Emulsifier?


Emulsifiers enable oil and water to combine smoothly, forming a stable and consistent mixture. Without them, the oil and water in creams or lotions would separate, resulting in an inconsistent texture and diminished effectiveness.


Emulsification is essential to creating stable products - but the type of emulsifier is crucial.
Emulsification is essential to creating stable products - but the type of emulsifier is crucial.

What Is Polysorbate?


Polysorbates are synthetic emulsifiers derived from polyethylene glycol (PEG). They help keep products stable by preventing the separation of oil and water-based ingredients. But, these chemicals can pose some risks when used in cosmetics.


Why You Should Be Concerned


  1. Toxicity: Polysorbates can break down into harmful by-products like 1,4-dioxane, a probable carcinogen. This makes prolonged use potentially dangerous.

  2. Skin Irritation: Those with sensitive skin may experience irritation, breakouts, or allergic reactions when using products containing polysorbates.

  3. Hormonal Disruption: Some studies suggest polysorbates may interfere with hormones, potentially leading to reproductive issues or hormone imbalances.

  4. Environmental Impact: Polysorbates are often derived from petrochemicals, contributing to pollution when washed down the drain.


Looking On the Label


Polysorbates can be known as the following:


  • Liposorb

  • PEG sorbitan laurate

  • Tween 20

  • PEG-# sorbitan laurate

  • Polyethylene glycol (#) sorbitan laurate (where # = 4,10,40,44,75,80,500,2000, or 4000)

  • PEG-80 sorbitan laurate

  • monododecanoate poly (oxy-1,2-ethanydiyl) derivs

  • sorbitan

  • polyoxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate

  • polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate

  • polysorbate-20

  • sorbimacrogol laurate 300

  • sorbitan

  • monododecanoate

  • poly (oxy-1,2 ethanediyl) derivs. [1, 8].


Natural Alternatives


The shavings of locally sourced Cera Alba (Beeswax), a natural emulsifier.
The shavings of locally sourced Cera Alba (Beeswax), a natural emulsifier.


If you're looking to avoid polysorbates, there are natural emulsifiers that work just as well:


  • Beeswax

  • Candelilla Wax

  • Gum Acacia

  • Plant-based oils like coconut or jojoba

  • Lecithin (derived from soy or sunflower)


These natural ingredients can blend your skincare products without the toxic side effects of polysorbates. When making our products, especially the products that are put on your skin, we opt to use natural.


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